Gemma BLDOur experience
If you’ve seen a photo of someone swimming with penguins, chances are it was taken at Boulders Beach, the only place in the world where you can get this close to African penguins in their natural habitat. But here’s what most people won’t tell you: if you go at the wrong time or follow the crowd, you might leave with more frustration than memories.
Seeing penguins in Boulders Beach is a magical and beautiful experience to definitely add to your to-do list. But let’s be real, the beach draws big crowds and if you want a quiet and intimate experience, there are a few things to keep in mind. When we show our photos and videos to locals, they are shocked by how lucky we were to get so close to the penguins. Here’s what we did.
We didn’t initially plan to arrive so early. Jet lag woke us up before sunrise and with nothing better to do, we got an Uber from Cape Town at about 6:30 a.m. The ride took about 45 minutes and the sunrise views were beautiful. Like all the Cape Town Uber drivers we met, this one was extremely kind and helpful. He told us stories about the places we drove past and gave us some tips for other activities we had planned.
When we arrived, the square near the entrance was completely empty, except for a few street vendors who were setting up for the day. We followed the signs to the right, toward the paid boardwalk trail where you can view penguins from designated platforms. It was closed and we had an hour to kill. Instead, we went left to sit on the public beach. It was completely empty with wild penguins waddling around freely on the beach and the rocks.
We quietly sat down, barely speaking. Within a few minutes, a few curious penguins came right up to us, just a foot or two away. This was one of the most surreal moments of my life. After a while, we got up and had a swim amongst the penguins. It was truly a beautiful moment.
Unfortunately, the moment shattered a few minutes later. A group of tourists came sprinting down the beach, shouting and pointing, phones raised. The penguins scattered instantly. What a shame.
After visiting, we were starving and decided to look for a place to grab a bite. Just on the square before the beach, we found a cute café with some outdoor seating. It’s called the Cormorant Café.
As you can see on the photo, we both got a full cooked breakfast of eggs, bacons and fries. It was tasty and well-cooked and the staff there were very kind and friendly.
If you take one thing away from this post, let it be this: respect the animals. The magic of Boulders Beach doesn’t lie in getting the perfect selfie or chasing after a photo opportunity. It’s in the stillness. The quiet coexistence. The privilege of being near wild creatures in their natural home.
So go early. Turn left. Sit down. Be patient. And let the penguins come to you.
Planning a trip to Boulders Beach?
When to go
The best time to visit Boulders Beach to see penguins is early in the morning. If you can, go as early as possible like we did. This way, you can have the beach to yourself and see the penguins without the pressure of crowds. Of course, weekdays are better than weekends.
Seasonally, you can give penguins on the beach all year-round. But breeding season, from February to August, offers more interactions as the penguins tend to nest closer to shore. Summer (from December to February) is warmer for swimming, but also peak tourist time. We went at the end of March and felt like it was the perfect time.
Tides aren’t a major factor for penguin sightings, but lower tides expose more beach space, making it easier to sit quietly and observe them up close.
How to get there
From Cape Town, Boulders Beach is about a 45-minute drive. Taxis and Ubers are the most convenient, especially if you’re going early and they are on the cheaper side. You can also drive there if you have rented a car.
Public transport options are limited and not ideal for an early morning visit. If you’re feeling adventurous, the scenic train to Simon’s Town followed by a short taxi ride is a budget-friendly daytime option — just know it can take twice as long.
What to bring
You won’t need to bring too much because you’ll only be there for a few hours and there are cafés nearby. Here are a few ideas:
- A towel (the sand can be damp early in the morning)
- A swimsuit if you want a quick swim — the water is cool but refreshing
- Water, sunscreen, and a snack if you’re staying a while
- A camera or phone. Taking photos is fine but make sure to be on silent mode and to turn off the flash (you won’t be needing it anyway).
Boardwalk vs. Public Beach
Most visitors head straight to the paid boardwalk entrance, which costs around R170 (~$9 USD) for international visitors. This route leads to designated viewing platforms where you can see penguins from above — great for photos, but less immersive.
Like I mentioned earlier, if you turn left from the square instead of right, you’ll reach the public beach, where penguins roam freely. This area is technically outside the official reserve but is still protected, so the same rules apply.
Please respect the penguins
The encounter we had with the other tourists was very sad. This can’t be said enough: don’t chase, touch, or corner the penguins. Stay low, move slowly, and keep a respectful distance. If you sit quietly, they might come to you but if they walk away, let them.
There are a few rules you should keep in mind : you can’t touch the penguins, you can’t feed the penguins and you shouldn’t drink alcohol or smoke on the beach.
Also, shouting, sudden movements, and phone flashes stress them out. Remember: you’re a guest in their home. Treat it that way.
